Experiencing Ganges River at sunrise and sunset is truly an unforgettable experience. Riding along the river gives you a different vantage point of traditions unique to different times of the day and gives you the full experience of being near the Ganges River, without actually going into the polluted waters.
There are approximately 90 ghats lining the 6km stretch of the Ganges River passing through Varanasi. Ghats are a series of concrete steps that form the religious landscape of the city and each commemorates someone or something different.
Ganges River at Sunset
I was super excited for my first visit to the Ganges at sunset. Since vehicles are not permitted close to the river, we had to walk the rest of the way. Stepping out of the car and into complete mayhem on the street made the 500m stroll feel like an adventure in itself.
We were surrounded by utter chaos. There was a mob of people headed in the direction of the Ganges, there were cows, goats, rickshaws, street hawkers, heaps of garbage, cow poop and incessant noise pollution (beep beep, honk honk, moooo)! Our tour guide with Trinetra Tours even wore a red shirt so we wouldn’t lose sight of him.
Starting from the most popular ghat called Dashashvamedh Ghat, we took a leisurely ride to Manikarnika Ghat, the main cremation ghat. As we approached the billowing smoke from the funerary pyres, I noticed the blanket of air was thicker and it hit me that we were all inhaling dead people’s ashes. I’m not going to lie – this creeped me out. No one around me seemed bothered by the thought and so I tried really hard to let it slide.
It’s a desire for every Hindu to die in Varanasi and to be cremated on the ghats. But cremation doesn’t apply to holy men and children under 2 since their souls do not need purifying. Unwed girls, criminals and the poor who cannot afford cremation costs have water burials, meaning their bodies are disposed of in the river itself. This custom is illegal and Indian officials are making every effort to bury these bodies to prevent the spread of diseases.
Sunset on the Ganges culminated in the daily evening Ganga Aarti ceremony along the edge of Dashashvamedh Ghat. The Aarti is a Hindu prayer ceremony where Hindus sing Vedic hymns to chiming bells, chant and pray along with priests who mesmerize devotees with synchronized lighted lamps.
Ganges River at Sunrise
Our driver dropped us off at the same point along the main road to the river just before dawn. The main road was a stark contrast to what we had seen 12 hours before – it was now completely devoid of chaos. For a city so full of life, it was a bit eerie to feel the silence cut through the dark. It was also surreal to have the road all to ourselves!
Dashashvamedh Ghat looked like a different place before sunrise. On the ghat, a group of women pilgrims were shaving their heads in preparation for entering the Ganges.
It was so fascinating to see how much life changes within a day and still religion is so deeply ingrained in their lives. The atmosphere was so calm as we took to the boat at sunrise that I remember we sat in meditative silence observing life being lived along the river bank. There was a sense of renewal as people and pilgrims were getting ready to start their day. It’s during sunrise that you see how life and death are inextricably linked.
Hindus placed puja offerings of flowers into the water. Pilgrims came in droves to bathe in the water to cleanse their souls. Children jumped off elevated platforms and swam playfully in the river. There were so many different things happening at once!
Being on the river was a welcome respite from the busy activity of the city and ghats. But at one point, I remember looking out at the ghats and feeling as if I was watching the city through a TV screen and that I wasn’t really present. Being in such an extraordinary place that many only read about in National Geographic was a lot to absorb at that moment. It took a few arm pinches to bring me back to Varanasi. This is a place I definitely want to revisit again.
Safe Travels!
xx Deb
Share your comments!