Varanasi is the epitome of a holy city. Everywhere you turn, there are pilgrims and acts of spiritual devotions seamlessly integrated with daily life and commerce. There is never a dull second in Varanasi and all I wanted was for time to stand still so I could admire every splitting detail of this fascinating city.
Alleyways
It’s been said that the best way to see Varanasi is to get lost through the twisted maze of alleyways on foot. Luckily, we had a private guide so we never had to worry about getting completely lost.
After our sunrise boat ride, we got off at Dashashvamedh Ghat and headed through one of the alleyways extending from the river bank. The alleys are made up of derelict homes, temples and shrines, hawkers selling pooja offerings, and guest houses for pilgrims. The alleys are already so narrow to passing humans, let alone cows that sleep in them! As we were squeezing through a narrow path, a small lady passed me and coughed at my nose level. From that second, I felt myself getting sick and it turned out to be a 2 week long bronchitis infection.
We visited Kashi Vishvanath Temple, the Golden Temple of Varanasi dedicated to the God Shiva. The temple has a strict rule: no cellphones, no bags, and no cameras. Lockers can be rented in any of the adjacent shops. Foreigners enter through metal detectors guarded by police officers. Once inside the entrance, we could only peer over a wall at the temple’s golden spires and domes, as non-hindus cannot enter the temple.
Interestingly enough, within same gated complex is the Gyanvapi Mosque. We only learned later that the heavy security is partially due to terrorist attacks in Varanasi in 2006 and 2010.
The Main Road
Our guide asked what we wanted to do in Varanasi in our free time. I requested that we revisit the main thoroughfare so I could perch on a street corner to people-watch. Read about my first visit to the main road here.
It was a really fun experience to be part of the chaos – there were cars, tuk tuks, people, cows, chickens, heaps of garbage, cow poop, street hawkers, and bicycles all sharing the road! Don’t forget the incessant noise pollution: beep beep, honk honk, moooo! All the while, sadhus (holy men) were sitting on the side of the road, as peaceful as ever.
If you get a chance to travel through India, I highly recommend a visit to Varanasi. You won’t be disappointed by the colourful and vibrant life of the city.
Safe Travels!
xx Deb
Hanna says
Your article made me miss India. Haven´t been to Varanasi, but your lovely pictures were showing the atmosphere in there.
Deb Che says
India is such a great travel destination! Varanasi is such a special place, I hope you get a chance to visit it someday! Thanks for reading 🙂